Mantis Care Guide | Managing Domestic and Foreign Species, Feeding, and Tips for Successful Molting

Introduction to Mantis Keeping

Mantises are among the most intelligent and distinctive insects, and their popularity as pets has surged in recent years. Domestic Japanese species like the Chinese mantis and Korean mantis are popular, as are exotic species such as the orchid mantis (which mimics flowers), the thick-bodied mantis (which mimics dead leaves), and the African ghost mantis, each with their own fascinating forms that captivate enthusiasts.

Mantises can be kept in relatively small spaces, and for those interested in providing live insects, they make extremely compelling pets. However, they have unique challenges: they are strictly carnivorous, and molting failure can be fatal. Therefore, it's essential to understand the basics before beginning to keep them. This guide explains the fundamental care principles that apply to both domestic and foreign species.

Choosing a Cage and Setting Up the Environment

Mantises are insects that move vertically, and they hang upside-down from the ceiling during molting. This means cage height is more important than width.

Recommended cage size (for adults):

• Height: At least 3 times the body length (e.g., for an 8cm Chinese mantis, at least 24cm height)
• Width/Depth: About 2 times the body length is sufficient
• Material: A breathable mesh cage is ideal. Sealed glass tanks promote moisture buildup and respiratory problems

Place multiple perches and artificial plants in the cage to create plenty of climbing surfaces. Mantises prefer three-dimensional spaces over flat surfaces, and feel more secure in higher locations. For substrate, coconut husk or paper towels are easy to manage and clean.

Absolute rules to follow:

• No cohabitation: Mantises are cannibalistic; two or more in the same cage will result in one being eaten
• Never change the cage layout before molting: Environmental changes right before molting cause severe stress

Temperature and Humidity Management for Domestic and Foreign Species

Temperature and humidity requirements vary significantly by species. This is the biggest difference between domestic and foreign species.

Domestic species (Chinese mantis, Korean mantis, broad-bellied mantis):

• Temperature: 20–30°C (often manageable at room temperature)
• Humidity: 50–60%
• Winter heating is not necessary, but activity drops dramatically below 10°C. Adult overwinter is nearly impossible; individuals that mature in autumn will pass away after reproduction

Foreign species (tropical/subtropical origin):

• Orchid mantis, thick-bodied mantis: 28–32°C, 70–80% humidity. Mist daily to create water droplets on cage walls for hydration
• Ghost mantis: 22–28°C, 40–60% humidity. Prefers drier conditions and is sensitive to excess moisture
• Devil's flower mantis: 26–30°C, 60–70% humidity. Humidity management is especially critical before and after molting

For foreign species, use heating pads or small thermostats to prevent temperature fluctuations.

Feeding – Live Food Types and Feeding Methods

Mantises only eat moving prey and are obligate carnivores. Correct prey sizing and feeding timing are critical to successful care.

Nymphs through 3rd instar (up to 3 molts after hatching):

• Flightless fruit flies are ideal
• They are extremely small, making individual feeding with tweezers difficult; place a few in the cage instead
• This is when many nymphs starve, so maintain a small population of prey at all times

4th instar through adulthood:

• House crickets or two-spotted crickets are readily available and cost-effective
• Size guideline: about the width of the mantis's head. Prey that is too large may injure the mantis
• Feed every 2–3 days (one prey item). Daily feeding leads to obesity, affecting reproduction and lifespan
• Wax worms and mealworms are high in fat and unsuitable as staple food. Use small quantities when appetite wanes

Critical feeding rules:

• Never feed during molting (when the body is pale or hanging down)
• Do not place food in the cage for 48 hours before and after molting (newly molted mantises are soft and cricket bites can be fatal)
• Remove uneaten prey immediately (causes stress and molting failure)

Managing the Environment for Successful Molting

Molting failure in mantises is life-threatening. If legs or claws fail to shed, amputation may be necessary or the mantis may die. Molting success depends almost entirely on advance environmental preparation.

Three conditions for successful molting:

1. Sufficient height: The mantis must be able to hang from the ceiling and fully extend its body. Ensure at least twice the body length of space below the ceiling
2. Appropriate humidity: If too dry, the molt becomes stuck. For domestic species, mist lightly once the day before molting; for tropical foreign species, maintain normal misting frequency
3. Eliminate vibration and stress: Do not move the cage once molting begins. Keep family members and pets away

Observation only is the rule during molting. Humans attempting to "help" is the most common cause of molting failure. If molting takes more than 2–4 hours, lightly mist the cage walls (not the mantis directly) to increase humidity.

Reproduction and Egg Case Management

Breeding is one of the highlights of mantis keeping. After mating, the female deposits an "ootheca" (egg case)—a foamy mass of eggs.

Breeding sequence (domestic species example):

• Introduce adult males and females only after feeding and for a short time (hungry individuals have high cannibalism risk)
• Separate immediately after mating. Continue feeding the female regularly
• Egg cases are deposited on branches or walls. Leave them undisturbed after laying
• Domestic species egg cases overwinter at room temperature and hatch in spring (April–May). Do not warm indoors for domestic species, as this causes them to misjudge the season; manage them outdoors or in an unheated area

Foreign species egg cases vary by species in temperature and humidity requirements. Post-hatch nymph management (1st–3rd instar) is most challenging, so beginners should focus on preventing starvation during this period.

Summary – Mantises as Distinctive Pets

Through keeping mantises, one discovers the fascinating "personality" of individual insects. Even within a species, some are shy, others bold, and some become tame enough to take prey from tweezers—observing these differences builds affection. Foreign mantises captivate with their unique camouflage and coloration, and they are not significantly more difficult to care for than domestic species.

On BreederDirect, you can purchase and sell CB (captive-bred) individuals of both domestic and foreign species. Captive-bred individuals adapt to captive conditions more easily than wild-caught specimens and are easier for beginners to handle. Give it a try with CB individuals.