Tarantula Breeding Guide | Mating, Egg Sacs, Hatching, and Spiderling Care
A guide to successful tarantula breeding. From determining male maturity and supervising mating, to egg sac management, hatching, and spiderling rearing, this guide explains safe and reliable breeding procedures.
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A guide to successful tarantula breeding. From determining male maturity and supervising mating, to egg sac management, hatching, and spiderling rearing, this guide explains safe and reliable breeding procedures.
While tarantula breeding may seem difficult, success is achievable for many species when done correctly: confirming male maturity, safely supervising mating, and properly managing spiderlings after hatching. Successful breeding not only allows you to acquire rare or hard-to-find species, but also deepens your enjoyment of keeping them. This article explains practical procedures and important considerations throughout the entire tarantula breeding cycle.
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The first critical step in tarantula breeding is confirming that the male has reached maturity. Male tarantulas become sexually mature after their final molt (terminal molt), at which point the tips of their pedipalps (palps) swell and become bulbous in shape (development of the sperm bulb). Once this morphological change is visible, the male is ready to breed. After maturation, males typically become more active and exhibit roving behavior, actively searching for females.
It is important to note that while the lifespan of mature males varies by species, it is generally short—typically only 6 to 18 months after the final molt. In particular, baboon tarantulas (African species) tend to have especially short lifespans after maturation, so it is critical to attempt breeding as soon as maturity is confirmed.
Female Assessment and Preparation
It is important that females are in good nutritional condition before mating. The following points should be checked before mating:
The abdomen should be moderately full (not showing signs of starvation)
The female should not be freshly molted (at least 2 to 3 weeks should have passed since the molt)
Immediately after molting, a female's exoskeleton is soft and could be fatally injured if bitten by the male, so wait until hardening is completely complete before attempting mating.
It is common to withhold feeding for 1 to 2 weeks before mating, as well-fed females tend to be more aggressive toward males. However, excessive fasting can deplete the female's stamina, so maintaining feeding at about half the normal amount is also an effective approach.
Mating Supervision and Safety Management
Supervising mating is the most thrilling and requires the most attention. Since males risk being preyed upon by females after mating, supervision must always be conducted with forceps or a long brush at hand.
The procedure is as follows: First, open the lid of the female's enclosure and place the male near it, allowing him to voluntarily enter the female's cage (manually handling the male can cause stress and trigger aggressive behavior, so encourage voluntary movement as much as possible). When the male approaches the female, he will exhibit signaling behavior, such as moving his pedipalps rapidly or vibrating his abdomen. If the female accepts this, she will remain still and assume a posture with her body raised.
Once mating behavior begins (the male restrains the female's fangs with a hook-like structure and brings his abdomen into contact), observe without interfering. Mating typically lasts from several seconds to a few minutes. It is critical to safely separate the male from the female immediately after mating using forceps or similar tools. Even after successful mating, attempting mating 2 to 3 times increases the probability of fertilization.
Egg Sac Management
After successful mating, the female will produce an egg sac a few weeks to several months later. The egg sac is a silken ball that the female tends by rolling it in her mouth (turning). This turning behavior is critical for oxygen supply to the eggs and uniform warming.
In captivity, there is a risk that the female may abandon the egg sac or consume it. If abandonment is detected, remove it immediately and attempt artificial incubation in an incubator (approximately 28 to 29°C, varying by species). While the female is guarding the egg sac, feeding is not necessary, but water should be replenished regularly. It is difficult to determine from the outside whether the eggs inside the sac are developing normally, but if the sac's shape collapses or an unusual foul odor develops, these are signs of a problem.
Hatching and Spiderling Care
The time from egg sac to hatching varies by species but is typically around 4 to 12 weeks. As hatching approaches, movement may be felt inside the sac. Spiderlings immediately after hatching are in a stage called "slings," with soft exoskeletons and not yet capable of independent feeding.
After hatching, slings undergo their first molt before they are capable of independent behavior. Once this stage is reached, individual care begins. Manage them using small plastic containers (such as food storage boxes), with holes drilled in the lid for ventilation. The substrate should be a thin layer of moistened vermiculite or coconut husk.
Start feeding with cricket nymphs or fruit flies about half the sling's body length. Appetite can be unstable for the first few weeks, so always remove uneaten food by the next day (to prevent mold and molting problems). Water can be safely provided by placing moistened cotton or sponge in a corner of the container.
Spiderling Growth and Preparing for Sale or Transfer
Depending on the species, slings grow into adults or subadults over 1 to 3 years. During this time, they undergo periodic molts, so it is important not to feed them around molting times (signs include reduced appetite and darkening of the abdomen) and to maintain a quiet environment. Contact with crickets immediately after molting, when the exoskeleton is still soft, can be fatal, so do not feed for at least a week after molting.
When breeding is successful, many spiderlings may be produced (in some species, 100 to over 1,000). Common options for handling surplus individuals include requesting acceptance by reptile and insect shops or trading and selling among breeders. When selling or transferring, it is the responsibility of a conscientious breeder to provide basic care information to the recipient. Tarantula breeding can contribute to species conservation, and the proliferation of captive-bred (CB) specimens helps reduce the overexploitation of wild-caught (WC) individuals, making it a meaningful endeavor.
