Complete Care Guide for Leopard Geckos

The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius, commonly called "leo") is one of the most popular species for reptile beginners. Their gentle temperament, relatively compact habitat requirements, and wide variety of morphs (color varieties) make them highly appealing. This guide covers everything you need to know before getting started, from setup to daily care.

Basic Information About Leopard Geckos

• Origin: Arid regions of Pakistan, western India, and Afghanistan
• Total length: 18-25 cm (including tail)
• Lifespan: 10-20 years (longer in optimal conditions)
• Temperament: Easily tamed; relatively easy to handle
• Activity pattern: Nocturnal (most active at dusk and nighttime)

Choosing and Setting Up an Enclosure

Recommended Enclosure Size

For a single adult, the minimum enclosure size is 45 x 30 cm (width x depth). An enclosure of 60 x 30 cm or larger is more ideal, providing better space for exercise.

• Glass enclosures: Easy to maintain humidity and observe your gecko
• Acrylic enclosures: Lightweight and easy to handle, but prone to scratching
• Wooden enclosures: Excellent heat retention, but require extra attention to cleanliness

Substrate

• Paper towels / kitchen paper: Easiest to maintain. Especially recommended for juveniles and sick individuals
• Reptile sand (fine grain): Creates a natural look, but watch for ingestion risk
• Tile / slate: Clean and also helps maintain nail length

Hides

Hides are essential. A "moist hide" (with a water reservoir on top) is particularly useful, as it maintains high humidity inside to assist with shedding. Ideally, place one hide on the hot spot side and one on the cool side of the enclosure.

Temperature Management

Proper temperature management is the single most important factor in keeping a leopard gecko healthy.

| Location | Recommended Temperature | |------|----------| | Hot spot (floor level) | 30-32°C | | Overall enclosure | 25-28°C | | Nighttime | Down to 20-23°C is acceptable |

Heating Equipment

• Under-tank heater (heat mat): Place under approximately 1/3 of the enclosure floor. Always use with a thermostat
• Ceramic heat emitter / heat bulb: Used to warm the air (thermostat required)
• Infrared heater: Provides heat without visible light, ideal for nighttime

> Tip: Always use a thermostat to prevent overheating. Excessively high floor temperatures can cause thermal burns.

Types of Food and Feeding

Primary Food Items

• Crickets (banded / house crickets): The most common feeder. Good nutritional balance
• Dubia roaches: High nutritional value and easy to maintain
• Mealworms: High in fat, so use as a supplemental food
• Pinky mice: Used for breeding females or weight recovery

Feeding Frequency

• Baby to young (under 3 months): Daily or every other day
• Young to sub-adult (3 months to 1 year): Every 2-3 days
• Adult (over 1 year): Every 3-7 days

Calcium and Vitamin Supplementation

Dust feeder insects with calcium powder before offering them. Aim for calcium dusting 2-3 times per week, and a vitamin D3-containing supplement once per week. Vitamin deficiency can lead to MBD (metabolic bone disease).

Hydration

Keep a shallow water dish available at all times and replace with fresh water daily. Water depth should be shallow enough to prevent drowning (about 5 mm). If misting, do so at night and allow the enclosure to dry by morning.

Shedding Care

Signs of Upcoming Shed

• Overall body color becomes whitish (milky appearance)
• Eyes turn bluish-white (known as "blue eye")
• Appetite decreases

Preventing Incomplete Sheds

• Maintain humidity inside the moist hide
• Avoid handling before and during shedding
• If needed, soak in lukewarm water for about 30 minutes, then gently remove retained skin by hand

Pay special attention to retained shed on the toes, as leaving it can lead to circulation loss and tissue death (necrosis).

Breeding Basics

Cooling (Brumation)

To stimulate breeding, gradually lower temperatures during autumn and winter through a process called "cooling."

1. Gradually reduce food over 3 weeks
2. Lower enclosure temperature to 18-22°C for 60-90 days
3. In spring, return temperatures to normal and provide ample nutrition
4. Introduce the male and female for mating

Egg Laying and Incubation

• Females lay 1-2 eggs per clutch, producing multiple clutches every 2-4 weeks
• Incubation temperature can determine sex (approximately 27°C tends to produce females; 32°C tends to produce males)
• Incubation period is approximately 45-65 days depending on temperature

Common Husbandry Notes

• Cohabitation: Males are highly territorial and cannot be housed together. Female-only groups or a single male with multiple females may be possible with caution
• UVB lighting: Not strictly required, but can help maintain overall health
• Handling: Gradually acclimate your gecko with short daily sessions; avoid sudden movements

On BriChoku, many breeders specializing in leopard geckos list their animals for sale. You can review morph and lineage details and purchase with confidence.