Beginner's guide to chinchilla care: temperature sensitivity, daily dust baths, hay-based diet, cage setup with multi-level platforms, and social needs.
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Beginner's guide to chinchilla care: temperature sensitivity, daily dust baths, hay-based diet, cage setup with multi-level platforms, and social needs.
Chinchillas are rodents native to the Andes Mountains of South America and are popular pets for their extremely dense, beautiful fur and endearing behaviors. They measure about 25–35 cm in body length, weigh 400–800g (females are slightly larger), and have a long lifespan of 10–20 years. Being nocturnal, they become active in the evening and night, and with their powerful jumping ability, they can leap over 1 meter vertically.
In the wild, they inhabit cool, dry rocky areas at altitudes of 3,000–5,000 meters, making them extremely sensitive to heat and humidity—the most critical point for their care. Chinchilla fur grows over 60 hairs from a single pore, and this high density makes temperature regulation difficult for them. As a result, summer in Japan poses a life-threatening risk, making strict temperature management essential.
Before starting to keep chinchillas, please carefully confirm that you can maintain temperature control 24/7 with air conditioning, commit to caring for them for 10+ years, and tolerate their nighttime activity noise.
Temperature management is the most important aspect of chinchilla care. The ideal temperature range is 15–21°C, with an upper limit of 25°C; above 26°C, the risk of heat stroke increases dramatically. The ideal humidity level is 40–50%; above 60%, the risk of skin disease and fungal infections increases.
During summer, keep the room temperature at 20–23°C with 24-hour air conditioning, and we strongly recommend preparing an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) or battery-powered fan to protect against power outages. Never turn off the air conditioning, even at night or when away from home. Install a thermometer and hygrometer inside the cage and develop the habit of checking them daily.
During winter, be careful not to let the room temperature drop too much, but chinchillas are relatively tolerant of cold; around 15°C is sufficient. However, avoid sudden temperature changes, and if using heaters, position them so that warm air does not blow directly on the cage.
Using a dehumidifier is effective for humidity management. Especially during the rainy season and typhoon season when humidity can exceed 70%, consider using a dedicated dehumidifier in addition to your air conditioner's dehumidifying function.
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Chinchillas are highly active and need as large a cage as possible. The minimum size is 60cm wide × 60cm deep × 90cm high, but ideally 80cm wide × 60cm deep × 120cm high or larger. Since chinchillas prefer vertical movement, choose a tall cage.
Install multiple levels inside the cage with about 20–30 cm spacing between steps. Wooden steps are recommended because chinchillas can chew on them for enrichment, but they need to be replaced regularly. A nest box is essential; provide a dark, confined space where the chinchilla can rest securely.
A bottle-type water dispenser and a heavy ceramic food bowl are suitable because they are resistant to chewing and tipping. While a toilet cannot be fixed in place, some chinchillas may use a specific area for elimination, so observe your pet.
Place the cage where it does not receive direct sunlight and is not in the direct path of air conditioning. Avoid noisy areas near televisions or speakers; an ideal location is quiet but where you can observe the chinchilla's activity. Placing a soundproof mat under the cage can reduce nighttime activity noise.
Line the cage floor with wood chips or paper chips and replace them completely about once a week. Avoid coniferous wood chips as they may contain resins that harm health; choose hardwood chips (such as aspen).
Dust bathing is essential for chinchillas to keep their fur clean. Never give them water baths; always use specialized dust-bath sand. Chinchilla fur is so dense that it dries slowly when wet, leading to skin disease and fungal infections.
Prepare a dust-bath container at least 25 cm in diameter and 15 cm deep, filled with sand to a depth of 3–5 cm. Use commercially available chinchilla dust-bath sand (fine sand made from volcanic ash); do not use cat litter or river sand as they have coarse particles that damage fur.
Ideally, dust baths should be given daily for about 10–20 minutes. However, if left in the cage continuously, some chinchillas will use it as a toilet, so we recommend offering it 1–2 times daily at set times. When a chinchilla enters the dust-bath container, it will roll over on its back and coat itself with sand—an adorable sight to see.
Remove feces and dirt from the sand about once a week with a sieve, and replace it completely about once a month. You can heat-sterilize sand in a pan for reuse, but replacing it with fresh sand is more reliable. On humid days, sand absorbs moisture, so store it in an airtight container and keep it in a dry place when not in use.
Chinchillas are herbivores, and their main diet should center on timothy hay (a grass-family forage). Provide first-cut timothy hay (which is high in fiber) in unlimited amounts, ensuring fresh hay is always available. Hay is essential for preventing overgrown teeth and maintaining digestive health.
Feed specialized chinchilla pellets at 2–3% of body weight (approximately 8–12g for a 400g chinchilla) divided into 1–2 daily portions. While pellets are important for nutritional balance, overfeeding can cause obesity and reduced hay consumption.
Treats such as dried fruit (apple, raisins) or seeds should be given 2–3 times per week in amounts no larger than a fingernail. Chinchillas are sensitive to sugar, and excessive consumption can cause diabetes and obesity. When buying commercial chinchilla treats, check the ingredient list and avoid those high in sugar.
Do not give fresh vegetables or fruits as they have too much water content and can cause diarrhea. Avoid almonds and peanuts as they are too high in fat. Always provide fresh tap water in a bottle and change it daily. Do not use mineral water as it increases the risk of kidney stones.
Chinchillas are cautious animals, but they gradually become accustomed to handling through daily interaction. Start by offering treats from your hand, building trust without forcing contact. Once comfortable, they may climb onto your hand or shoulder.
Daily observation is the foundation of health checks. Monitor appetite, feces (healthy droppings are rice-sized, oval-shaped, and firm), activity level, and fur condition. If you notice eye discharge, nasal discharge, sneezing, drooling, diarrhea, or loss of appetite, seek veterinary care immediately.
Overgrown teeth are a life-threatening problem. Since incisors continuously grow, ensure they eat plenty of hay and provide chewing wood to naturally wear them down. Molars are difficult to observe, so if you notice reduced appetite or drooling, consult a veterinarian as malocclusion may be present.
Since few veterinarians treat chinchillas, we strongly recommend finding an exotic animal veterinarian nearby before getting one. Consider annual health checkups.
Cage cleaning should include daily spot-cleaning (removal of feces and uneaten food) and weekly deep cleaning. When washing the cage, rinse thoroughly and dry completely before use.
Chinchillas are long-lived, affectionate companion animals. With proper environment and care, you can enjoy wonderful years together for over a decade.